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Saturday, March 29, 2008
THEY SURE KEEP ME HOPPIN’ DON’T THEY – PART 1Ansonica. Catturatto. Falaghina. Fiano. No, these are not incantations; I am not
possessed (at least I don’t think so). I am merely reciting the names of the rather obscure white Italian and Sicilian
varietals I experienced recently. I would characterize whites from that part of the world as subtle and well balanced, seldom
with the wow factor but rather vinified with food in mind. That’s the cool thing about Old World wines, they have evolved
alongside Old World cuisines. And now it is the sworn duty of yours truly to establish, wherever possible, their credentials
with the enchilada, barbecue, sushi, artichokes et al; you know, stuff we eat. But until the opportunity arises (and it will)
here are my impressions. Ansonica and Catturatto constitute the 50/50 Anthilia 2006 blend from Sicily’s highly regarded
Donnafugata Winery. I went to their website to gather more riveting facts but, alas, I can’t read Sicilian. However,
I can tell you that the packaging is eye catching, the alcohol is a moderate 13 per cent, and the wine is well priced in the
$12 to $13 range. The subtle scent of citrus with a hint of peach carries over to a tangy, yet creamy grapefruit tinged palate.
This one has “bring on the food” written all over it. And the very next day, in walks Jason with Torre Gaia Falaghina
2006 and Fiano 2006 from Campania. The labels were spiffy (as opposed to eye catching), the alcohols were 13 and 12 per cent
respectively, and the $14 tariff quite fair. The delicate, ever so slightly spicy flavors of stones and apples and the fresh,
fluid mouth feel of the Falaghina reminded me of an Albarino so I think the first go round will focus on crab or prawns or
clam chowder and lamb (that’s right, lamb). The Fiano immediately sparked my interest with welcoming steely Chablis-like
aromas and a pretty, fleshy spicy apple-ish entry that hinted at both Sauvignon Blanc and Torrontes. The somewhat austere
finish had me thinking soups; we will see. Watch for more out of the box sampling in Part 2 with a tasty white blend from
Argentina.
Sat, March 29, 2008 | link
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